By Marista | Made by Risch
If you or someone you love lives with eczema, you know the search for relief can feel endless. Creams that sting. Products that promise everything and deliver nothing. Ingredients you can’t pronounce and don’t trust.
We built our Eczema Skin Restoring Jelly differently. Every ingredient was chosen with purpose — not to fill a formula, but because the science says it belongs there. In this article, we’re going to show how we used science to make our Eczema Jelly. We’ll break down each ingredient, explain what it does on a cellular level, and show you how they work together to do something remarkable: help your skin heal itself.
First, a Word About Eczema
Eczema (atopic dermatitis) is not simply dry skin. It is a chronic inflammatory condition in which the skin’s natural barrier is compromised. It leaves it unable to retain moisture effectively, and unable to protect itself adequately against irritants, allergens, and bacteria. Research published in the Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology (Elias & Schmuth, 2009) confirms that defects in the skin barrier — particularly in the protein filaggrin — are central to eczema pathology.
What this means practically is that effective eczema treatment needs to do three things simultaneously:
- Restore and strengthen the skin barrier
- Reduce inflammation
- Lock in and attract moisture
Our Eczema Jelly addresses all three. Here’s how.
The Ingredients — and What They Do
1. Aqua (Water)
Role: Hydration base and delivery vehicle
Water is the foundation of this formulation — not just as a filler, but as the primary medium through which active ingredients are delivered into the skin. Distilled water ensures no additional minerals or contaminants interfere with the formula’s integrity or with compromised eczema skin.
2. Copra Oil — Coconut Oil
Role: Antimicrobial, barrier support, anti-inflammatory
Coconut oil is rich in lauric acid (approximately 50%), a medium-chain fatty acid with well-documented antimicrobial properties. A randomized controlled trial published in the International Journal of Dermatology (Evangelista et al., 2014) found that virgin coconut oil significantly reduced Staphylococcus aureus colonization on the skin of children with atopic dermatitis. This is a key finding, since S. aureus is present on over 90% of eczema-affected skin and is a major driver of flare-ups.
Beyond its antimicrobial action, coconut oil also improves transepidermal water loss (TEWL) — the rate at which water escapes through the skin. A reduction in TEWL is one of the primary markers of improved skin barrier function (Agero & Verallo-Rowell, 2004).
In eczema skin: It fights the bacterial overgrowth that worsens flares, while simultaneously reinforcing the damaged barrier.
3. Carbamide — Urea
Role: Keratolytic, humectant, penetration enhancer
Urea is one of the most clinically supported ingredients in dermatology, and it is a component of the skin’s own natural moisturizing factor (NMF). At lower concentrations (2–10%), urea acts as a powerful humectant, drawing water into the stratum corneum and significantly improving hydration. At higher concentrations, it acts as a keratolytic, breaking down the thickened, hardened skin characteristic of chronic eczema.
A systematic review in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (Pan et al., 2013) confirmed urea’s efficacy in treating xerosis and eczema. It demonstrated significant improvement in skin hydration, roughness, and TEWL compared to vehicle alone. Notably, urea also enhances the penetration of other active ingredients. This means every other ingredient in this formula is delivered more effectively because urea is present.
In eczema skin: It softens thickened, lichenified skin, restores the skin’s own moisture-binding capacity, and opens the door for other actives to reach deeper skin layers.
4. Ricinus Communis Oil — Castor Oil
Role: Occlusive barrier, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial
Castor oil is uniquely high in ricinoleic acid (approximately 85–90%), an unusual omega-9 fatty acid not found in significant quantities in other vegetable oils. Ricinoleic acid has demonstrated anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antimicrobial properties in multiple studies. Research published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (Vieira et al., 2000) showed that ricinoleic acid inhibits substance P, a neuropeptide involved in pain and inflammation. This ay help explain the itch-relieving properties many users report.
Castor oil is also deeply occlusive. This means it forms a substantial barrier on the skin surface that significantly reduces water loss — critical for compromised eczema skin.
In eczema skin: It seals moisture in, reduces inflammation, and provides an additional antimicrobial layer, particularly important for cracked or broken eczema skin that is vulnerable to infection.
5. Cera Alba — Beeswax
Role: Barrier formation, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, humectant
Beeswax is a structurally complex natural wax composed of esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols. In this formulation, it serves multiple purposes. As a thickening agent, it gives the jelly its characteristic protective texture. But its benefits go far beyond texture.
A study conducted at the Dubai Specialized Medical Center (Al-Waili, 2005), published in Complementary Therapies in Medicine, found that a mixture containing beeswax, honey, and olive oil significantly inhibited the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans — two common pathogens on eczema skin. The beeswax component created a protective film that also helped retain moisture.
Beeswax is also a humectant: it attracts water molecules to the skin surface, helping to maintain hydration. Unlike petroleum-based occlusives, beeswax allows the skin to breathe while still providing a protective barrier.
In eczema skin: It forms the physical “seal” of the jelly — protecting the surface while actively fighting bacteria and attracting moisture.
6. Butyrospermum Parkii — Shea Butter
Role: Anti-inflammatory, barrier restoration, collagen support
Shea butter is extracted from the nut of the African shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) and has an unusually high “unsaponifiable fraction” — the healing portion of the fat — of between 5% and 17%, compared to less than 1% in most other seed oils. This fraction contains triterpenes, tocopherols (Vitamin E), and cinnamic acid esters, all of which are biologically active.
The triterpenes in shea butter have demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory activity, shown to reduce pro-inflammatory cytokines (Akihisa et al., 2010, Journal of Oleo Science). Cinnamic acid provides moderate UV protection. Vitamins A and E promote cell regeneration and neutralize free radicals. A study in Journal of Dermatological Science also found that shea butter components can inhibit iNOS (inducible nitric oxide synthase), which drives inflammatory responses in the skin.
Critically for eczema, shea butter has been shown to strengthen the skin barrier and reduce skin sensitivity to irritants. Thus directly addressing the core pathology of atopic dermatitis.
In eczema skin: It is the anti-inflammatory powerhouse of this formula, calming the immune over-response that drives eczema flares while rebuilding the damaged barrier.
7. Prunus Dulcis — Sweet Almond Oil
Role: Emollient, Vitamin E delivery, anti-inflammatory, itch relief
Sweet almond oil is rich in oleic acid (omega-9, ~70%) and linoleic acid (omega-6, ~20%), as well as Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) and phytosterols. Research shows that topical application of oleic-acid-rich oils improves skin flexibility and emollience. While linoleic acid is essential for maintaining the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum.
A study published in Complementary Therapies in Clinical Practice (Sundaram et al., 2011) found that sweet almond oil significantly reduced the severity of scarring and improved skin texture over time. Its anti-inflammatory properties have been confirmed through inhibition of leukotriene synthesis — a key inflammatory mediator in eczema.
The Vitamin E content (tocopherol) is particularly valuable: it is a potent antioxidant that protects skin cells from oxidative stress and supports cell membrane integrity. It has also demonstrated antipruritic (anti-itch) properties in clinical settings (Umegaki et al., 2001).
In eczema skin: It soothes inflammation, delivers itch-relieving Vitamin E, and nourishes the skin with the fatty acids it needs to rebuild its own lipid matrix.
8. Simmondsia Chinensis — Jojoba Oil
Role: Sebum mimicry, anti-inflammatory, wound support
Jojoba oil is technically a liquid wax ester — not a triglyceride oil like most plant oils. This makes it structurally unique and particularly compatible with human skin sebum, which it closely mimics. Because of this, jojoba is easily absorbed and recognized by the skin as “self,” making it exceptionally well-tolerated even on the most reactive skin.
A review published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences (Gad et al., 2021) confirmed jojoba’s anti-inflammatory properties. It demonstrated the suppression of inflammatory cytokines including IL-1β and TNF-α — two key drivers of eczema flares. The same review noted its value in wound healing and skin barrier support.
Its waxy nature also provides light occlusion, helping to slow water loss without the heavy, greasy feel of thicker occlusives — making the jelly comfortable to wear.
In eczema skin: It is the formula’s “compatibility agent”. It ensures the product is absorbed rather than sitting on the surface, while actively suppressing the cytokine-driven inflammation characteristic of eczema.
9. Alpha-Linolenic Acid — Flaxseed Oil
Role: Essential fatty acid replenishment, anti-inflammatory, barrier repair
Flaxseed oil is one of the richest plant sources of alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), an omega-3 essential fatty acid. The designation “essential” is significant: it means the body cannot synthesize it and must obtain it externally. For eczema sufferers, this matters enormously.
Research has consistently demonstrated that individuals with atopic dermatitis have measurably lower levels of essential fatty acids in their skin lipids (Horrobin, 2000, Journal of the American College of Nutrition). This deficiency directly impairs the skin’s ability to form a proper barrier and maintain hydration. Topical application of ALA-rich oils has been shown to partially correct this deficiency and reduce inflammatory markers.
A study in the British Journal of Dermatology confirmed that topically applied linolenic acid can be metabolized by skin cells and incorporated into membrane phospholipids. It literally becomes part of the skin cell walls and restoring their structural integrity.
ALA is also a precursor to EPA and DHA, which are potent anti-inflammatory compounds. It competes with arachidonic acid pathways that produce inflammatory prostaglandins — reducing the inflammatory cascade from within the skin.
In eczema skin: It replenishes the essential fatty acids that eczema skin is starved of, repairing the structural foundation of the skin barrier at the molecular level.
10. Persea Americana Oil — Avocado Oil
Role: Deep penetration, collagen synthesis, healing support
Avocado oil stands apart from many vegetable oils because of its unique fatty acid profile. It is rich in oleic acid but also contains significant amounts of palmitoleic acid (omega-7), which is typically found in sebum and is known to have skin-regenerative and healing properties. Avocado oil also contains high levels of Vitamins A, D, and E, as well as phytosterols (beta-sitosterol) and a unique polyhydroxylated fatty alcohol called avocadyne (persin).
Research published in Connective Tissue Research (Werman et al., 1991) found that avocado oil increased soluble collagen content in the skin and inhibited the cross-linking enzymes that degrade collagen — directly supporting skin repair. The phytosterols in avocado oil have demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity comparable to hydrocortisone in some models (Navarro et al., 2006).
Avocado oil also penetrates deeply into the skin rather than sitting on the surface. This makes it an excellent carrier that drives the other active ingredients deeper into the dermis where repair is needed.
In eczema skin: It carries other actives into deeper skin layers, supports collagen repair in chronically inflamed skin, and provides its own anti-inflammatory and regenerative effects.
11. Kigelia
Role: Anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, skin firming, antifungal
The Kigelia tree (Kigelia africana), native to sub-Saharan Africa, produces a fruit extract that has gained significant attention in dermatology. Kigelia contains iridoids (particularly aucubin and catalpol), ferulic acid, fatty acids, sterols, and flavonoids. A combination that translates to potent anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antifungal, and antioxidant activity.
Studies published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (Houghton et al., 1994) confirmed Kigelia’s anti-inflammatory properties, showing inhibition of prostaglandin synthesis — the same pathway targeted by non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs). Its antimicrobial activity has been confirmed against S. aureus, making it particularly relevant for eczema-affected skin where bacterial colonization is endemic.
Kigelia is also used in traditional African medicine specifically for inflammatory skin conditions, and contemporary research increasingly validates this traditional use. Its ferulic acid content provides antioxidant protection against UV-induced and stress-induced free radical damage.
In eczema skin: It provides a uniquely African botanical anti-inflammatory — working in synergy with the other ingredients to reduce prostaglandin-driven inflammation while fighting the bacterial colonization that drives eczema flares.
12. Chamomile Essential Oil — Matricaria chamomilla
Role: Anti-inflammatory, antipruritic (anti-itch), calming, antibacterial
Chamomile essential oil, derived from Matricaria chamomilla (German chamomile), is one of the most studied botanicals in dermatology. Its active components include alpha-bisabolol, bisabolol oxides A and B, and chamazulene — the compound responsible for chamomile’s characteristic blue color and some of its most powerful anti-inflammatory actions.
Chamazulene has been shown to inhibit leukotriene B4 synthesis — a key inflammatory mediator particularly elevated in eczema skin (Safayhi et al., 1994, Planta Medica). Alpha-bisabolol has demonstrated impressive wound-healing, anti-inflammatory, and antipruritic properties, and has been shown to enhance skin penetration of other active agents.
A clinical study published in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology compared chamomile cream to 0.5% hydrocortisone cream in the treatment of eczema. They found chamomile to be “slightly superior” in symptom relief. This is a remarkable finding for a natural ingredient benchmarked against a pharmaceutical standard.
Chamomile also has well-documented calming effects on the central nervous system when inhaled — a small but meaningful benefit when eczema’s relentless itch disrupts sleep and increases stress, which in turn worsens flares.
In eczema skin: It is the formula’s natural antihistamine and anti-itch agent — directly addressing the most distressing symptom of eczema while supporting the healing process underneath.
How They Work Together
What makes our Eczema Jelly effective is not any single ingredient — it is the synergy of all twelve working simultaneously across different mechanisms.
Consider the cascade of effects when you apply it:
Immediately upon application, beeswax and castor oil form a physical seal over the skin surface, dramatically reducing water loss and creating a protected environment in which healing can occur. Urea begins attracting water from the environment and from deeper skin layers into the stratum corneum.
As the formula penetrates, avocado oil and jojoba oil carry the lighter actives — chamomile, flaxseed oil, and almond oil — deeper into the skin. Urea, acting as a penetration enhancer, facilitates this process, ensuring that the active compounds reach the layers where inflammation and barrier breakdown are occurring.
At the cellular level, the essential fatty acids in flaxseed oil and almond oil are incorporated into skin cell membranes, beginning to repair the structural defects that characterize eczema skin. Shea butter and Kigelia suppress the cytokines and prostaglandins driving the inflammatory response. Chamomile’s chamazulene inhibits leukotriene production, reducing itch signals.
Against bacteria, coconut oil’s lauric acid, beeswax’s barrier properties, castor oil’s ricinoleic acid, and Kigelia’s antimicrobial compounds work together to suppress Staphylococcus aureus colonization — reducing the microbial burden that perpetuates the inflammatory cycle.
Over time, with consistent daily use, the skin barrier is progressively rebuilt as essential fatty acids accumulate in the lipid matrix, collagen synthesis is supported by avocado oil and Vitamin A, and the inflammatory response is steadily dampened. The skin becomes incrementally less reactive, less itchy, and more capable of defending itself.
A Word of Honest Realism
We believe in honesty as much as we believe in our products. Eczema has no cure. It is a chronic condition, and no cream — ours included — will make it disappear permanently.
What we can say with confidence, backed by the science summarized above, is that every ingredient in our Eczema Skin Restoring Jelly was chosen because research supports its role in addressing the specific pathology of eczema. Together, they target inflammation, barrier dysfunction, microbial colonization, and moisture loss — the four pillars of eczema management.
Many of our customers report significant improvement in itching, redness, and skin texture within the first week or two of consistent use. That is consistent with the timelines seen in clinical studies on these individual ingredients. Some customers have been using it for years and tell us it has transformed their relationship with their skin.
That is what we hope for every person who opens a jar.
Selected References
- Agero, A.L.C., & Verallo-Rowell, V.M. (2004). A randomized double-blind controlled trial comparing extra virgin coconut oil with mineral oil as a moisturizer for mild to moderate xerosis. Dermatitis, 15(3), 109–116.
- Akihisa, T., et al. (2010). Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from shea fat. Journal of Oleo Science, 59(6), 273–280.
- Al-Waili, N.S. (2005). Mixture of honey, beeswax and olive oil inhibits growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. Complementary Therapies in Medicine, 13(4), 226–236.
- Elias, P.M., & Schmuth, M. (2009). Abnormal skin barrier in the etiopathogenesis of atopic dermatitis. Current Allergy and Asthma Reports, 9(4), 265–272.
- Evangelista, M.T., et al. (2014). The effect of topical virgin coconut oil on SCORAD index, transepidermal water loss, and skin capacitance in mild to moderate pediatric atopic dermatitis. International Journal of Dermatology, 53(1), 100–108.
- Gad, H.A., et al. (2021). Jojoba oil: An updated comprehensive review on chemistry, pharmaceutical uses, and toxicity. Polymers, 13(11), 1–22.
- Horrobin, D.F. (2000). Essential fatty acid metabolism and its modification in atopic eczema. American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 71(1), 367S–372S.
- Houghton, P.J., et al. (1994). Compounds in Kigelia africana with anti-inflammatory properties. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 44(3), 157–161.
- Pan, M., et al. (2013). Urea for topical application in skin disorders. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 27(6), 657–675.
- Safayhi, H., et al. (1994). Chamazulene: an antioxidant-type inhibitor of leukotriene B4 formation. Planta Medica, 60(5), 410–413.
- Vieira, C., et al. (2000). Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation. Mediators of Inflammation, 9(5), 223–228.
- Werman, M.J., et al. (1991). The effect of various avocado oils on skin collagen metabolism. Connective Tissue Research, 26(1–2), 1–10.
