Marista, Author at Made By Risch

The Science Behind Our Eczema Skin Restoring Jelly: How Every Ingredient Works

Leave a Comment / Ingredient Info / Marista

By Marista | Made by Risch If you or someone you love lives with eczema, you know the search for relief can feel endless. Creams that sting. Products that promise everything and deliver nothing. Ingredients you can’t pronounce and don’t trust. We built our Eczema Skin Restoring Jelly differently. Every ingredient was chosen with purpose — not to fill a formula, but because the science says it belongs there. In this article, we’re going to show how we used science to make our Eczema Jelly. We’ll break down each ingredient, explain what it does on a cellular level, and show you how they work together to do something remarkable: help your skin heal itself. First, a Word About Eczema Eczema (atopic dermatitis) is not simply dry skin. It is a chronic inflammatory condition in which the skin’s natural barrier is compromised. It leaves it unable to retain moisture effectively, and unable to protect itself adequately against irritants, allergens, and bacteria. Research published in the Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology (Elias & Schmuth, 2009) confirms that defects in the skin barrier — particularly in the protein filaggrin — are central to eczema pathology. What this means practically is that effective eczema treatment needs to do three things simultaneously: Our Eczema Jelly addresses all three. Here’s how. The Ingredients — and What They Do 1. Aqua (Water) Role: Hydration base and delivery vehicle Water is the foundation of this formulation — not just as a filler, but as the primary medium through which active ingredients are delivered into the skin. Distilled water ensures no additional minerals or contaminants interfere with the formula’s integrity or with compromised eczema skin. 2. Copra Oil — Coconut Oil Role: Antimicrobial, barrier support, anti-inflammatory Coconut oil is rich in lauric acid (approximately 50%), a medium-chain fatty acid with well-documented antimicrobial properties. A randomized controlled trial published in the International Journal of Dermatology (Evangelista et al., 2014) found that virgin coconut oil significantly reduced Staphylococcus aureus colonization on the skin of children with atopic dermatitis. This is a key finding, since S. aureus is present on over 90% of eczema-affected skin and is a major driver of flare-ups. Beyond its antimicrobial action, coconut oil also improves transepidermal water loss (TEWL) — the rate at which water escapes through the skin. A reduction in TEWL is one of the primary markers of improved skin barrier function (Agero & Verallo-Rowell, 2004). In eczema skin: It fights the bacterial overgrowth that worsens flares, while simultaneously reinforcing the damaged barrier. 3. Carbamide — Urea Role: Keratolytic, humectant, penetration enhancer Urea is one of the most clinically supported ingredients in dermatology, and it is a component of the skin’s own natural moisturizing factor (NMF). At lower concentrations (2–10%), urea acts as a powerful humectant, drawing water into the stratum corneum and significantly improving hydration. At higher concentrations, it acts as a keratolytic, breaking down the thickened, hardened skin characteristic of chronic eczema. A systematic review in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (Pan et al., 2013) confirmed urea’s efficacy in treating xerosis and eczema. It demonstrated significant improvement in skin hydration, roughness, and TEWL compared to vehicle alone. Notably, urea also enhances the penetration of other active ingredients. This means every other ingredient in this formula is delivered more effectively because urea is present. In eczema skin: It softens thickened, lichenified skin, restores the skin’s own moisture-binding capacity, and opens the door for other actives to reach deeper skin layers. 4. Ricinus Communis Oil — Castor Oil Role: Occlusive barrier, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial Castor oil is uniquely high in ricinoleic acid (approximately 85–90%), an unusual omega-9 fatty acid not found in significant quantities in other vegetable oils. Ricinoleic acid has demonstrated anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antimicrobial properties in multiple studies. Research published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (Vieira et al., 2000) showed that ricinoleic acid inhibits substance P, a neuropeptide involved in pain and inflammation. This ay help explain the itch-relieving properties many users report. Castor oil is also deeply occlusive. This means it forms a substantial barrier on the skin surface that significantly reduces water loss — critical for compromised eczema skin. In eczema skin: It seals moisture in, reduces inflammation, and provides an additional antimicrobial layer, particularly important for cracked or broken eczema skin that is vulnerable to infection. 5. Cera Alba — Beeswax Role: Barrier formation, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, humectant Beeswax is a structurally complex natural wax composed of esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols. In this formulation, it serves multiple purposes. As a thickening agent, it gives the jelly its characteristic protective texture. But its benefits go far beyond texture. A study conducted at the Dubai Specialized Medical Center (Al-Waili, 2005), published in Complementary Therapies in Medicine, found that a mixture containing beeswax, honey, and olive oil significantly inhibited the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans — two common pathogens on eczema skin. The beeswax component created a protective film that also helped retain moisture. Beeswax is also a humectant: it attracts water molecules to the skin surface, helping to maintain hydration. Unlike petroleum-based occlusives, beeswax allows the skin to breathe while still providing a protective barrier. In eczema skin: It forms the physical “seal” of the jelly — protecting the surface while actively fighting bacteria and attracting moisture. 6. Butyrospermum Parkii — Shea Butter Role: Anti-inflammatory, barrier restoration, collagen support Shea butter is extracted from the nut of the African shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) and has an unusually high “unsaponifiable fraction” — the healing portion of the fat — of between 5% and 17%, compared to less than 1% in most other seed oils. This fraction contains triterpenes, tocopherols (Vitamin E), and cinnamic acid esters, all of which are biologically active. The triterpenes in shea butter have demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory activity, shown to reduce pro-inflammatory cytokines (Akihisa et al., 2010, Journal of Oleo Science). Cinnamic acid provides moderate UV protection. Vitamins A and E promote cell regeneration and neutralize free radicals. A study

The Science Behind Our Eczema Skin Restoring Jelly: How Every Ingredient Works Read More »

Essential Oils: Drawing Back the Curtain

Leave a Comment / Uncategorised / Marista

A while ago, I was invited to an essential oil party. Think Tupperware party, but instead of plastic containers, the host was selling beautifully packaged bottles of essential oils at prices that made my eyes water. The woman presenting was enthusiastic, I’ll give her that. But the information she shared was, at best, incomplete, and at worst, dangerously misleading. She spoke with absolute conviction about oils “curing” conditions, about ingesting them freely, and about layering them directly on skin without dilution. Not once did she mention safety, contraindications, or the very real limits of what the science actually supports. What frustrated me most was not the sales pitch. It was the realization that this is incredibly common. People share posts, attend parties, and buy into claims without verifying a single one. And because I use essential oils in several of my own products, I have spent considerable time researching them properly. So let’s do this right. Here is what you actually need to know about essential oils. A Brief History Essential oils are far from a modern wellness trend. Their use spans thousands of years across multiple civilizations. Ancient Egyptians used aromatic plant extracts in religious rituals, embalming, and medicine as far back as 3500 BCE. They employed a rudimentary form of infusion, soaking plant material in oils or fats to extract aromatic compounds. Evidence of distillation-like processes has also been found in Mesopotamia dating to around 3000 BCE. In ancient India, the Ayurvedic tradition incorporated aromatic plant extracts into medicine and ritual for millennia. Traditional Chinese medicine similarly used plant-based aromatics extensively. In ancient Greece and Rome, physicians including Hippocrates and Dioscorides documented the medicinal use of plant extracts, with Dioscorides’ work De Materia Medica becoming a foundational medical text for centuries. The term “essential oil” itself is believed to derive from “quintessential oil,” rooted in the Aristotelian concept of the “fifth essence” or quintessence – the spirit or life force of a plant. The process of steam distillation, which remains the most common method of production today, was refined and documented by Persian physician Avicenna (Ibn Sina) around the 10th and 11th centuries CE, and his contributions laid the groundwork for modern essential oil production. The modern aromatherapy movement began in the early 20th century, largely attributed to French chemist René-Maurice Gattefossé, who coined the term “aromatherapy” in 1937 after reportedly discovering the burn-soothing properties of lavender oil firsthand. Since then, the industry has grown into a multi-billion dollar global market, with all the benefits and pitfalls that follow. How Are Essential Oils Made? Not all essential oils are produced the same way. The method used depends on the plant material involved, and each method has implications for the quality and chemical composition of the resulting oil. Steam Distillation The most widely used method. Steam is passed through plant material, causing the volatile aromatic compounds to evaporate. The steam and aromatic vapour are then cooled and condensed, separating into water (hydrosol) and oil. Lavender, peppermint, tea tree, and eucalyptus oils are typically produced this way. Cold Pressing (Expression) Used primarily for citrus oils. The rind of the fruit is mechanically pressed or punctured to release the aromatic oils. Because no heat is involved, the resulting oil retains a fresher, more vibrant profile. Lemon, orange, bergamot, and grapefruit oils are produced this way. These oils are also more prone to phototoxicity – an important safety consideration. Solvent Extraction Used for delicate flowers that cannot withstand steam distillation, such as jasmine, rose, and neroli. A chemical solvent (often hexane) is used to extract the aromatic compounds, producing what is called a “concrete,” which is then processed with alcohol to yield an “absolute.” These are highly concentrated and largely used in perfumery. Solvent residues, though minimal in the final product, are a consideration for therapeutic use. CO₂ Extraction A newer method using carbon dioxide under high pressure to extract aromatic compounds. It produces oils with a fuller chemical profile and no solvent residue. Frankincense and ginger are sometimes extracted this way. It is considered a premium method, and the oils produced are generally of high quality, though the cost reflects this. The Science Behind Essential Oils: What Do We Actually Know? This is where things get complicated, and where honest conversation becomes important. Essential oils do contain biologically active compounds. Many of them have demonstrated real pharmacological properties in laboratory settings, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antifungal activity. The challenge is the significant gap between what happens in a petri dish and what happens on or in the human body. The evidence base for essential oils is, in general, considered preliminary. Many studies are small, lack rigorous controls, or are conducted in vitro (in a lab) rather than in vivo (in living subjects). That does not mean essential oils are ineffective. It means we need to be precise about what we claim, and what we do not yet know. The National Institutes of Health (NIH) and other major health bodies acknowledge that some essential oils show genuine therapeutic promise, while cautioning against overstating what current research can support. Overstated Claims: Where the Evidence Falls Short Some of the most aggressively marketed claims around essential oils are precisely the ones with the weakest scientific support. Underappreciated Claims: Where the Evidence Is Stronger It would be equally dishonest to dismiss essential oils entirely. Several have accumulated meaningful research support for specific applications. How to Use Essential Oils Topically: A Practical Guide Topical application is one of the most common and studied uses of essential oils. It is also one of the most commonly misused. Here is what you need to know. Always dilute Essential oils must be diluted in a carrier oil before application to the skin. Applying them neat (undiluted) risks chemical burns, sensitization, and allergic reactions. The standard guideline from the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy (NAHA) is: Suitable carrier oils include jojoba, sweet almond, fractionated coconut, or grapeseed oil. Avoid applying essential oils to broken or irritated skin. Patch

Essential Oils: Drawing Back the Curtain Read More »

Activated Charcoal and Acne: A Dermatological Perspective

The 10-Step Skincare Routine That Changed My Life

More Than Skin Deep: A Reflection on Acne

Leave a Comment / Opinion / Marista

Having acne is seen as something horrible. It makes you ugly and can literally scar you for life. We’ve written before about the psychological effects acne can have on your self-esteem, your relationships, and your sense of self-worth. But today, I want to talk about something different—something deeper. I want to talk about judgment. I want to talk about how quick we are to look at others and draw conclusions. How often we judge people purely based on what we see—or worse, what we think we see. I never had acne. I had a couple of pimples during puberty—nothing major, nothing that left scars. My skin cleared up quickly, and I never really thought much about it. So, I didn’t know what it felt like to dread looking in the mirror or to want to hide your face from the world. But my sister did. She had terrible acne. Angry, painful breakouts that seemed to stay no matter what she did. We never really spoke about it—back then, we didn’t have the vocabulary for that kind of vulnerability. But looking back, I wonder if that’s why she spent so much time alone, holed up in her room. Maybe it wasn’t just teenage moodiness. Maybe it was shame. Maybe it was feeling like no one could understand what she was going through. Years later, my own daughter walked that same road. She struggled with acne for years. Not just a few pimples now and then—real, persistent, painful acne that left marks behind, both physically and emotionally. She washed her face. She drank the water. She avoided certain foods. She used the creams. She even tried medication. Still, the acne remained. And now, in her early twenties, it still flares up. She did everything right. And that’s something I’ve seen up close—twice now—so I can say it with absolute certainty: it wasn’t anything they did. They bathed. They cleansed. They ate well. Apart from the odd chocolate or treat, they followed every rule that society and skincare routines told them would lead to “perfect skin.” Meanwhile, my other kids—my boys—didn’t have acne. Sure, they had pimples, like most teenagers. But it passed fairly quickly, give or take a year or two. There were no long-term struggles, no lasting scars, no months of trying new treatments in the hope of relief. It came, it went, and they moved on. So why did my daughter get it so bad, and the boys didn’t? We don’t know. And we probably never will. It could be hormones. It could be genetics. It could be stress, environment, or something we just never identified. It could be everything or nothing. That’s the thing about acne—it’s unpredictable, and it’s not a one-size-fits-all condition. And yet, despite all this complexity, how quickly do we look at someone and judge? “Ooh, look at all those pimples. Maybe they should try bathing once in a while.” “Yoh, she’s eating chocolate with all that acne? She shouldn’t be doing that.”(Which, yes—chocolate can be a trigger for some. But you don’t know if that’s her first piece in months, do you?) “Ag shame, that guy didn’t take care of his skin properly. Just look at those scars. Shouldn’t have popped them, hey?” This is the kind of commentary people with acne hear every day. Some of it’s said out loud. Most of it is silently assumed. And it’s heartbreaking. Because we reduce people to their appearance, and in doing so, we strip away everything else that makes them human. And it doesn’t stop with acne. We do the same with people whose lives don’t look like ours. We pass beggars on the side of the road and think, They must have made some bad choices. We walk past the homeless and wonder, Why can’t they just get a job? But we don’t know their stories. Some may have made choices. Others may have had choices taken from them. And some people really do choose that life—but not all. Not most. And I’ve seen how quickly life can change. How fast the tables can turn. How easily one unforeseen circumstance—an illness, a job loss, a betrayal, a string of bad luck—can land you in a place you never imagined you’d be. Never say never. Because one day, you could find yourself in an ugly place. Maybe not physically, but emotionally. Spiritually. Financially. And in that moment, you wouldn’t want someone to look at your situation and define you by it. You wouldn’t want to be reduced to a snapshot of your worst moment. You would want someone to look beyond the surface, to see the whole of you. To show compassion. To reach out a hand, not point a finger. It’s so easy to judge. But would you want the same judgments you dish out, to be turned back on you? Would you want people to see your worst days and think they represent your entire life? Your worst moment and assume it’s who you are? What if instead of jumping to conclusions, we paused. What if we chose kindness instead? So, today, let’s make a conscious decision:Let’s not look at others through judgmental eyes. Let’s not reduce people to their skin, their circumstances, or their missteps. Let’s look deeper. Let’s see the beauty that actually matters—the beauty of the heart. Let’s remember that everyone is fighting battles we can’t see. Some of those battles are on their faces. Some are in their minds. Some are in their homes. And all of them deserve grace. Let’s build a world where we look past scars, past skin, past surface, and see each other fully. Because acne is not the enemy. Circumstance is not the enemy. Judgment is.

More Than Skin Deep: A Reflection on Acne Read More »