Marista

The Truth About Glycerin and Eczema

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By Marista | Made by Risch Why a Wonderful Ingredient Might Not Belong in Your Eczema Cream Let me say this upfront: I love glycerin. It is one of the most well-researched, well-proven, genuinely remarkable skincare ingredients in existence. It hydrates. It protects. It is gentle, natural, and backed by decades of solid science. I use it in several of our products, and I stand by that completely. But I do not use it in our Eczema Skin Restoring Jelly. Because eczema and glycerine do not always mix. And for a long time, that felt controversial — even to me. Almost every dermatologist recommends it. Almost every eczema moisturiser on the market contains it. The mainstream skincare industry treats glycerin as a near-universal good, especially for dry, compromised skin. But in my research I came across a research article that showed that glycerin might be contra-indicated for eczema skin. The research showed that it might actually make it worse. By this point in my journey in creating a cream that will work for my son’s eczema, I was desperate. I have tried everything. And despite having used all the right things in my cream, it still did not work. So I made a batch without glycerin, or vaseline, or mineral oil. The first batch was an absolute disaster! Since I use oils and butters in my cream, with no added ingredients like emolients, emulsifiers, etc. the oils and the butters kept splitting. It looked like a horrifying, oily goo. More research, more batches. And then I succeeded. I created a cream that naturally combined the oils and butters. But the proof is in the pudding – I had to test this on my son. I applied the cream to his skin, he had eczema all over – arms, legs, back, stomach, it was heartbreaking. He cried even more when I applied the cream and my heart sank. Did I make a mistake? Am I actually making it worse? When I say that his eczema was better by the following day, I am not exaggerating. Most of the inflammation on his skin, and the red patches were gone within a week. It was the glycerin. Because eczema and glycerine don’t always get along. And the science — once you dig deep enough — explains exactly why. This article is my honest attempt to lay out both sides of this story fairly, with all the research, all the nuance, and the full truth about glycerin and eczema. Part One: Why Glycerin is Genuinely Wonderful Before we get into the controversy, let’s be clear about what glycerin actually is and why it has earned its stellar reputation. Glycerin (also called glycerol) is a naturally occurring alcohol compound found in all plant and animal tissues, including human skin. It is derived commercially from vegetable oils or as a byproduct of soap-making. It is colourless, odourless, non-toxic, and biodegradable. Its primary function in skincare is as a humectant — an ingredient that attracts and binds water molecules to the skin. It does this through its hygroscopic nature: glycerin can absorb up to 20% of its own weight in water from the surrounding environment, drawing moisture both from the air and from deeper skin layers into the stratum corneum (the outermost skin layer). Research has consistently confirmed these benefits: A major review published in the British Journal of Dermatology (Fluhr et al., 2008) described glycerin as having a holistic role in skin health, noting its ability to improve stratum corneum hydration, enhance skin barrier function, and support the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF) — the collection of compounds the skin naturally produces to stay hydrated. Research has also shown that glycerin is involved in the activity of aquaporins — the protein channels that regulate the flow of water through skin cells. When functioning normally, this is enormously beneficial: glycerin essentially helps the skin’s own water management system work more efficiently. A double-blind clinical trial comparing 20% glycerin cream against a urea/sodium chloride cream in 197 patients with atopic dermatitis (Lodén et al., 2002, Acta Dermato-Venereologica) found both equally effective at reducing skin dryness, with glycerin actually causing significantly fewer adverse sensations like smarting — an important finding for people with already irritated eczema skin. And a placebo-controlled randomized trial specifically in atopic dermatitis (Breternitz et al., 2007, published in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology) confirmed that glycerol-based emollients significantly improved stratum corneum hydration compared to glycerol-free placebo. So the science supporting glycerin is real, substantial, and not to be dismissed. For most skin — including dry skin, sensitive skin, normal skin, and skin with mild dryness — glycerin is an excellent, evidence-backed ingredient. Full stop. Part Two: Where the Story Gets Complicated Here is where I need you to put on your scientist’s hat and follow me into some more complex territory. Because what happens in eczema skin is not the same as what happens in healthy dry skin — and that difference matters enormously. The AQP3 Problem I mentioned aquaporins above — the protein channels that regulate water flow in skin. In healthy skin, a specific aquaporin called AQP3 (Aquaporin-3) is expressed at low, controlled levels, mainly in the basal layer of the epidermis. It quietly and efficiently transports water and glycerol across cell membranes, helping to keep the skin hydrated. AQP3 is also the channel through which topically applied glycerin is transported into and through the skin. Under normal circumstances, this is exactly what you want. But in eczema skin, this system is broken. Multiple peer-reviewed studies have now confirmed that AQP3 is significantly upregulated — overexpressed — in atopic dermatitis lesions. A gene microarray study by Olsson et al. (2006, Allergy) analyzed skin biopsies from 10 eczema patients and 10 healthy controls and found that AQP3 was among the most notably upregulated genes in eczema skin, with strong AQP3 staining found throughout both the stratum basale and stratum spinosum — layers where it barely appears in healthy skin. The study’s conclusion: “Increased expression

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Science behind Eczema Jelly

The Science Behind Our Eczema Skin Restoring Jelly: How Every Ingredient Works

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By Marista | Made by Risch If you or someone you love lives with eczema, you know the search for relief can feel endless. Creams that sting. Products that promise everything and deliver nothing. Ingredients you can’t pronounce and don’t trust. We built our Eczema Skin Restoring Jelly differently. Every ingredient was chosen with purpose — not to fill a formula, but because the science says it belongs there. In this article, we’re going to show how we used science to make our Eczema Jelly. We’ll break down each ingredient, explain what it does on a cellular level, and show you how they work together to do something remarkable: help your skin heal itself. First, a Word About Eczema Eczema (atopic dermatitis) is not simply dry skin. It is a chronic inflammatory condition in which the skin’s natural barrier is compromised. It leaves it unable to retain moisture effectively, and unable to protect itself adequately against irritants, allergens, and bacteria. Research published in the Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology (Elias & Schmuth, 2009) confirms that defects in the skin barrier — particularly in the protein filaggrin — are central to eczema pathology. What this means practically is that effective eczema treatment needs to do three things simultaneously: Our Eczema Jelly addresses all three. Here’s how. The Ingredients — and What They Do 1. Aqua (Water) Role: Hydration base and delivery vehicle Water is the foundation of this formulation — not just as a filler, but as the primary medium through which active ingredients are delivered into the skin. Distilled water ensures no additional minerals or contaminants interfere with the formula’s integrity or with compromised eczema skin. 2. Copra Oil — Coconut Oil Role: Antimicrobial, barrier support, anti-inflammatory Coconut oil is rich in lauric acid (approximately 50%), a medium-chain fatty acid with well-documented antimicrobial properties. A randomized controlled trial published in the International Journal of Dermatology (Evangelista et al., 2014) found that virgin coconut oil significantly reduced Staphylococcus aureus colonization on the skin of children with atopic dermatitis. This is a key finding, since S. aureus is present on over 90% of eczema-affected skin and is a major driver of flare-ups. Beyond its antimicrobial action, coconut oil also improves transepidermal water loss (TEWL) — the rate at which water escapes through the skin. A reduction in TEWL is one of the primary markers of improved skin barrier function (Agero & Verallo-Rowell, 2004). In eczema skin: It fights the bacterial overgrowth that worsens flares, while simultaneously reinforcing the damaged barrier. 3. Carbamide — Urea Role: Keratolytic, humectant, penetration enhancer Urea is one of the most clinically supported ingredients in dermatology, and it is a component of the skin’s own natural moisturizing factor (NMF). At lower concentrations (2–10%), urea acts as a powerful humectant, drawing water into the stratum corneum and significantly improving hydration. At higher concentrations, it acts as a keratolytic, breaking down the thickened, hardened skin characteristic of chronic eczema. A systematic review in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology (Pan et al., 2013) confirmed urea’s efficacy in treating xerosis and eczema. It demonstrated significant improvement in skin hydration, roughness, and TEWL compared to vehicle alone. Notably, urea also enhances the penetration of other active ingredients. This means every other ingredient in this formula is delivered more effectively because urea is present. In eczema skin: It softens thickened, lichenified skin, restores the skin’s own moisture-binding capacity, and opens the door for other actives to reach deeper skin layers. 4. Ricinus Communis Oil — Castor Oil Role: Occlusive barrier, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial Castor oil is uniquely high in ricinoleic acid (approximately 85–90%), an unusual omega-9 fatty acid not found in significant quantities in other vegetable oils. Ricinoleic acid has demonstrated anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and antimicrobial properties in multiple studies. Research published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology (Vieira et al., 2000) showed that ricinoleic acid inhibits substance P, a neuropeptide involved in pain and inflammation. This ay help explain the itch-relieving properties many users report. Castor oil is also deeply occlusive. This means it forms a substantial barrier on the skin surface that significantly reduces water loss — critical for compromised eczema skin. In eczema skin: It seals moisture in, reduces inflammation, and provides an additional antimicrobial layer, particularly important for cracked or broken eczema skin that is vulnerable to infection. 5. Cera Alba — Beeswax Role: Barrier formation, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, humectant Beeswax is a structurally complex natural wax composed of esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols. In this formulation, it serves multiple purposes. As a thickening agent, it gives the jelly its characteristic protective texture. But its benefits go far beyond texture. A study conducted at the Dubai Specialized Medical Center (Al-Waili, 2005), published in Complementary Therapies in Medicine, found that a mixture containing beeswax, honey, and olive oil significantly inhibited the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans — two common pathogens on eczema skin. The beeswax component created a protective film that also helped retain moisture. Beeswax is also a humectant: it attracts water molecules to the skin surface, helping to maintain hydration. Unlike petroleum-based occlusives, beeswax allows the skin to breathe while still providing a protective barrier. In eczema skin: It forms the physical “seal” of the jelly — protecting the surface while actively fighting bacteria and attracting moisture. 6. Butyrospermum Parkii — Shea Butter Role: Anti-inflammatory, barrier restoration, collagen support Shea butter is extracted from the nut of the African shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) and has an unusually high “unsaponifiable fraction” — the healing portion of the fat — of between 5% and 17%, compared to less than 1% in most other seed oils. This fraction contains triterpenes, tocopherols (Vitamin E), and cinnamic acid esters, all of which are biologically active. The triterpenes in shea butter have demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory activity, shown to reduce pro-inflammatory cytokines (Akihisa et al., 2010, Journal of Oleo Science). Cinnamic acid provides moderate UV protection. Vitamins A and E promote cell regeneration and neutralize free radicals. A study

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Essential Oils: Drawing Back the Curtain

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A while ago, I was invited to an essential oil party. Think Tupperware party, but instead of plastic containers, the host was selling beautifully packaged bottles of essential oils at prices that made my eyes water. The woman presenting was enthusiastic, I’ll give her that. But the information she shared was, at best, incomplete, and at worst, dangerously misleading. She spoke with absolute conviction about oils “curing” conditions, about ingesting them freely, and about layering them directly on skin without dilution. Not once did she mention safety, contraindications, or the very real limits of what the science actually supports. What frustrated me most was not the sales pitch. It was the realization that this is incredibly common. People share posts, attend parties, and buy into claims without verifying a single one. And because I use essential oils in several of my own products, I have spent considerable time researching them properly. So let’s do this right. Here is what you actually need to know about essential oils. A Brief History Essential oils are far from a modern wellness trend. Their use spans thousands of years across multiple civilizations. Ancient Egyptians used aromatic plant extracts in religious rituals, embalming, and medicine as far back as 3500 BCE. They employed a rudimentary form of infusion, soaking plant material in oils or fats to extract aromatic compounds. Evidence of distillation-like processes has also been found in Mesopotamia dating to around 3000 BCE. In ancient India, the Ayurvedic tradition incorporated aromatic plant extracts into medicine and ritual for millennia. Traditional Chinese medicine similarly used plant-based aromatics extensively. In ancient Greece and Rome, physicians including Hippocrates and Dioscorides documented the medicinal use of plant extracts, with Dioscorides’ work De Materia Medica becoming a foundational medical text for centuries. The term “essential oil” itself is believed to derive from “quintessential oil,” rooted in the Aristotelian concept of the “fifth essence” or quintessence – the spirit or life force of a plant. The process of steam distillation, which remains the most common method of production today, was refined and documented by Persian physician Avicenna (Ibn Sina) around the 10th and 11th centuries CE, and his contributions laid the groundwork for modern essential oil production. The modern aromatherapy movement began in the early 20th century, largely attributed to French chemist René-Maurice Gattefossé, who coined the term “aromatherapy” in 1937 after reportedly discovering the burn-soothing properties of lavender oil firsthand. Since then, the industry has grown into a multi-billion dollar global market, with all the benefits and pitfalls that follow. How Are Essential Oils Made? Not all essential oils are produced the same way. The method used depends on the plant material involved, and each method has implications for the quality and chemical composition of the resulting oil. Steam Distillation The most widely used method. Steam is passed through plant material, causing the volatile aromatic compounds to evaporate. The steam and aromatic vapour are then cooled and condensed, separating into water (hydrosol) and oil. Lavender, peppermint, tea tree, and eucalyptus oils are typically produced this way. Cold Pressing (Expression) Used primarily for citrus oils. The rind of the fruit is mechanically pressed or punctured to release the aromatic oils. Because no heat is involved, the resulting oil retains a fresher, more vibrant profile. Lemon, orange, bergamot, and grapefruit oils are produced this way. These oils are also more prone to phototoxicity – an important safety consideration. Solvent Extraction Used for delicate flowers that cannot withstand steam distillation, such as jasmine, rose, and neroli. A chemical solvent (often hexane) is used to extract the aromatic compounds, producing what is called a “concrete,” which is then processed with alcohol to yield an “absolute.” These are highly concentrated and largely used in perfumery. Solvent residues, though minimal in the final product, are a consideration for therapeutic use. CO₂ Extraction A newer method using carbon dioxide under high pressure to extract aromatic compounds. It produces oils with a fuller chemical profile and no solvent residue. Frankincense and ginger are sometimes extracted this way. It is considered a premium method, and the oils produced are generally of high quality, though the cost reflects this. The Science Behind Essential Oils: What Do We Actually Know? This is where things get complicated, and where honest conversation becomes important. Essential oils do contain biologically active compounds. Many of them have demonstrated real pharmacological properties in laboratory settings, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antifungal activity. The challenge is the significant gap between what happens in a petri dish and what happens on or in the human body. The evidence base for essential oils is, in general, considered preliminary. Many studies are small, lack rigorous controls, or are conducted in vitro (in a lab) rather than in vivo (in living subjects). That does not mean essential oils are ineffective. It means we need to be precise about what we claim, and what we do not yet know. The National Institutes of Health (NIH) and other major health bodies acknowledge that some essential oils show genuine therapeutic promise, while cautioning against overstating what current research can support. Overstated Claims: Where the Evidence Falls Short Some of the most aggressively marketed claims around essential oils are precisely the ones with the weakest scientific support. Underappreciated Claims: Where the Evidence Is Stronger It would be equally dishonest to dismiss essential oils entirely. Several have accumulated meaningful research support for specific applications. How to Use Essential Oils Topically: A Practical Guide Topical application is one of the most common and studied uses of essential oils. It is also one of the most commonly misused. Here is what you need to know. Always dilute Essential oils must be diluted in a carrier oil before application to the skin. Applying them neat (undiluted) risks chemical burns, sensitization, and allergic reactions. The standard guideline from the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy (NAHA) is: Suitable carrier oils include jojoba, sweet almond, fractionated coconut, or grapeseed oil. Avoid applying essential oils to broken or irritated skin. Patch

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activated charcoal

Activated Charcoal and Acne: A Dermatological Perspective

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Activated charcoal has become a popular ingredient in skincare, especially for treating acne-prone skin. Known for its detoxifying properties, it has made its way into facial masks, cleansers, and scrubs. But what does science really say about activated charcoal and acne? In this article, we explore what activated charcoal is, how it works, how it interacts with acne, and the pros and cons of using it for acne treatment. What Is Activated Charcoal? Activated charcoal is a form of carbon that has been processed to have an extremely high surface area and porous texture. It is made by heating carbon-rich materials like wood, coconut shells, or peat in the absence of oxygen, and then activating it with gases at high temperatures to create pores [1]. These pores make activated charcoal excellent at adsorption—the process by which molecules stick to the surface of a substance. This property is what makes it useful in both medical and cosmetic applications. What Does Activated Charcoal Do? In medical settings, activated charcoal is used to treat poisonings and overdoses by binding to toxins in the stomach and preventing their absorption into the bloodstream [2][3]. It has also been studied for its ability to bind to gases, chemicals, and even cholesterol [4]. In skincare, these same adsorptive properties are believed to help remove dirt, excess oils, toxins, and bacteria from the surface of the skin, potentially improving the condition of acne-prone or oily skin [5][6]. How Activated Charcoal Works With Acne Acne is a complex skin condition involving excess oil production, clogged pores, bacterial activity (specifically Cutibacterium acnes), and inflammation. Activated charcoal may assist with several of these factors: 1. Oil Control Activated charcoal can adsorb sebum (the skin’s natural oil), helping reduce the greasy environment that supports acne formation [5]. 2. Unclogging Pores By binding to dead skin cells and impurities, charcoal may help unclog pores and prevent blackheads and whiteheads [7]. 3. Indirect Antibacterial Effects Although not directly antibacterial, activated charcoal may reduce bacterial overgrowth by keeping the skin clean and removing the oils and debris that bacteria feed on [8]. However, scientific studies on activated charcoal’s effects on acne specifically are limited, and most claims are based on anecdotal evidence or laboratory models [6][9]. Pros of Using Activated Charcoal for Acne 1. Deep Cleansing AbilityCharcoal’s high adsorptive power helps remove dirt and oil from deep within the pores [5][7]. 2. Reduces OilinessIt may help control excess sebum, making it ideal for oily or combination skin types [10]. 3. Non-Invasive and Easy to UseAvailable in masks, cleansers, and scrubs, it’s accessible and simple to incorporate into a skincare routine. 4. Minimal Systemic RiskWhen used topically, it does not get absorbed into the bloodstream, reducing the risk of systemic side effects [3]. Cons of Using Activated Charcoal for Acne 1. Lack of Clinical EvidenceThere are few well-designed clinical studies proving its effectiveness against acne [6][9]. 2. Potential for Skin IrritationPeel-off masks and some over-the-counter products can be harsh, stripping the skin and damaging its protective barrier [11]. 3. Over-DryingFrequent use may lead to dryness or flaking, especially for people with sensitive or already dry skin [12]. 4. Temporary EffectsAny visible improvement is often short-lived, requiring continuous application for sustained results. Dermatologist’s Advice While activated charcoal can be a useful addition to an acne-fighting routine, it is not a cure. It may provide short-term relief for oily or clogged skin but should be used in moderation and with products that are gentle and balanced. Always follow up with a moisturizer and avoid daily use unless recommended by a skincare professional. If you have cystic or severe acne, consult a dermatologist for a personalized treatment plan that may include topical or oral medications. Products with activated charcoal Our Acne Wash uses activated charcoal and although the formal clinical studies are not overwhelming in proving the efficacy of activated charcoal, the reports and feedback we have received, are quite amazing! References

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The 10-Step Skincare Routine That Changed My Life

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Just Kidding – I Mean, Do You Really NEED 7 Products for Your Face Every Night? These days, walking down the skincare aisle or scrolling online can feel like navigating a maze. You are bombarded with serums, essences, toners, boosters, facial mists, eye creams, overnight masks, face oils… the list is never-ending. And the message? You must use them all—layer by layer, a full 10-step skincare routine, every night—if you want glowing skin. Or if you want to age gracefully. Better yet, if you don’t want to age at all. Using faces of famous Hollywood actresses who probably don’t even use the products their faces are paid to sell… Really? Let’s be honest. Somewhere along the way, skincare turned into a full-time job. Who has 30 minutes before bed to slather their faces with layers of creams? Who has 10? But aside from the time, is it really necessary to have a full 10-step skincare routine for your face before bed? Do they actually work? And even if they do, do they work together? Or do they just rub off on your pillow while you sleep? Or do you have to wait some more for all the creams to absorb? I apologize for my ignorance, if I am speaking without knowledge. My research for my products were exactly to minimize the amount of products you need to use, and thereby minimizing the time it takes to apply them. So I did not research all the available products or how they should be used before writing this article. (Note: this is an opinion piece, not a research paper.) But one of the reasons I wanted to minimize the amount of products, is because I did try a multi-step, multi-layer facial routine once. Trust me, by the end of the first week I was already skipping half the stuff… It irks me even more that so many women believe they need an elaborate 10-step skincare routine just to take care of their skin. Even worse, the confusion has gotten so out of hand that some women don’t know what to use—so they end up using nothing at all. Can you believe that? Here’s my take: skincare doesn’t have to be complicated to be effective. In fact, it shouldn’t be. Our skin doesn’t need to be overloaded. It needs protection. It needs moisture. It needs food. In a word: it needs support. And the best support? Comes from a few good-quality products with clean, thoughtful ingredients. Here’s what I believe every woman needs: That’s it. No parabens. No sulfates. No artificial fragrances. Or colorings. And no pressure to buy into the idea that more is better. Because more is just… more. More money, more time… not necessarily more youth and less wrinkles. Skincare should be about health, not hype. About knowing what you’re putting on your skin—not just following trends blindly. Do your own research. Learn about ingredients. Your skin deserves that kind of love and attention—not an overflowing shelf of expensive confusion. Natural, intentional, and effective. That’s the kind of skincare we should be aiming for. O, and I almost forgot about the most important ingredients that can’t even be found in a bottle. Happiness and love. Nothing glows like a woman who is happy and loved! And the best happiness and love comes from within. Love what you see in the mirror and laugh often – at yourself, at your past, at your future, at the lion at the door, at your bank account, at your child’s horrible joke or at your husband’s long standing prank… just laugh! It’s the best cure for ageing.

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