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The Truth About Glycerin and Eczema

By Marista | Made by Risch Why a Wonderful Ingredient Might Not Belong in Your Eczema Cream Let me say this upfront: I love glycerin. It is one of the most well-researched, well-proven, genuinely remarkable skincare ingredients in existence. It hydrates. It protects. It is gentle, natural, and backed by decades of solid science. I use it in several of our products, and I stand by that completely. But I do not use it in our Eczema Skin Restoring Jelly. Because eczema and glycerine do not always mix. And for a long time, that felt controversial — even to me. Almost every dermatologist recommends it. Almost every eczema moisturiser on the market contains it. The mainstream skincare industry treats glycerin as a near-universal good, especially for dry, compromised skin. But in my research I came across a research article that showed that glycerin might be contra-indicated for eczema skin. The research showed that it might actually make it worse. By this point in my journey in creating a cream that will work for my son’s eczema, I was desperate. I have tried everything. And despite having used all the right things in my cream, it still did not work. So I made a batch without glycerin, or vaseline, or mineral oil. The first batch was an absolute disaster! Since I use oils and butters in my cream, with no added ingredients like emolients, emulsifiers, etc. the oils and the butters kept splitting. It looked like a horrifying, oily goo. More research, more batches. And then I succeeded. I created a cream that naturally combined the oils and butters. But the proof is in the pudding – I had to test this on my son. I applied the cream to his skin, he had eczema all over – arms, legs, back, stomach, it was heartbreaking. He cried even more when I applied the cream and my heart sank. Did I make a mistake? Am I actually making it worse? When I say that his eczema was better by the following day, I am not exaggerating. Most of the inflammation on his skin, and the red patches were gone within a week. It was the glycerin. Because eczema and glycerine don’t always get along. And the science — once you dig deep enough — explains exactly why. This article is my honest attempt to lay out both sides of this story fairly, with all the research, all the nuance, and the full truth about glycerin and eczema. Part One: Why Glycerin is Genuinely Wonderful Before we get into the controversy, let’s be clear about what glycerin actually is and why it has earned its stellar reputation. Glycerin (also called glycerol) is a naturally occurring alcohol compound found in all plant and animal tissues, including human skin. It is derived commercially from vegetable oils or as a byproduct of soap-making. It is colourless, odourless, non-toxic, and biodegradable. Its primary function in skincare is as a humectant — an ingredient that attracts and binds water molecules to the skin. It does this through its hygroscopic nature: glycerin can absorb up to 20% of its own weight in water from the surrounding environment, drawing moisture both from the air and from deeper skin layers into the stratum corneum (the outermost skin layer). Research has consistently confirmed these benefits: A major review published in the British Journal of Dermatology (Fluhr et al., 2008) described glycerin as having a holistic role in skin health, noting its ability to improve stratum corneum hydration, enhance skin barrier function, and support the skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF) — the collection of compounds the skin naturally produces to stay hydrated. Research has also shown that glycerin is involved in the activity of aquaporins — the protein channels that regulate the flow of water through skin cells. When functioning normally, this is enormously beneficial: glycerin essentially helps the skin’s own water management system work more efficiently. A double-blind clinical trial comparing 20% glycerin cream against a urea/sodium chloride cream in 197 patients with atopic dermatitis (Lodén et al., 2002, Acta Dermato-Venereologica) found both equally effective at reducing skin dryness, with glycerin actually causing significantly fewer adverse sensations like smarting — an important finding for people with already irritated eczema skin. And a placebo-controlled randomized trial specifically in atopic dermatitis (Breternitz et al., 2007, published in Skin Pharmacology and Physiology) confirmed that glycerol-based emollients significantly improved stratum corneum hydration compared to glycerol-free placebo. So the science supporting glycerin is real, substantial, and not to be dismissed. For most skin — including dry skin, sensitive skin, normal skin, and skin with mild dryness — glycerin is an excellent, evidence-backed ingredient. Full stop. Part Two: Where the Story Gets Complicated Here is where I need you to put on your scientist’s hat and follow me into some more complex territory. Because what happens in eczema skin is not the same as what happens in healthy dry skin — and that difference matters enormously. The AQP3 Problem I mentioned aquaporins above — the protein channels that regulate water flow in skin. In healthy skin, a specific aquaporin called AQP3 (Aquaporin-3) is expressed at low, controlled levels, mainly in the basal layer of the epidermis. It quietly and efficiently transports water and glycerol across cell membranes, helping to keep the skin hydrated. AQP3 is also the channel through which topically applied glycerin is transported into and through the skin. Under normal circumstances, this is exactly what you want. But in eczema skin, this system is broken. Multiple peer-reviewed studies have now confirmed that AQP3 is significantly upregulated — overexpressed — in atopic dermatitis lesions. A gene microarray study by Olsson et al. (2006, Allergy) analyzed skin biopsies from 10 eczema patients and 10 healthy controls and found that AQP3 was among the most notably upregulated genes in eczema skin, with strong AQP3 staining found throughout both the stratum basale and stratum spinosum — layers where it barely appears in healthy skin. The study’s conclusion: “Increased expression

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Activated Charcoal and Acne: A Dermatological Perspective

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Activated charcoal has become a popular ingredient in skincare, especially for treating acne-prone skin. Known for its detoxifying properties, it has made its way into facial masks, cleansers, and scrubs. But what does science really say about activated charcoal and acne? In this article, we explore what activated charcoal is, how it works, how it interacts with acne, and the pros and cons of using it for acne treatment. What Is Activated Charcoal? Activated charcoal is a form of carbon that has been processed to have an extremely high surface area and porous texture. It is made by heating carbon-rich materials like wood, coconut shells, or peat in the absence of oxygen, and then activating it with gases at high temperatures to create pores [1]. These pores make activated charcoal excellent at adsorption—the process by which molecules stick to the surface of a substance. This property is what makes it useful in both medical and cosmetic applications. What Does Activated Charcoal Do? In medical settings, activated charcoal is used to treat poisonings and overdoses by binding to toxins in the stomach and preventing their absorption into the bloodstream [2][3]. It has also been studied for its ability to bind to gases, chemicals, and even cholesterol [4]. In skincare, these same adsorptive properties are believed to help remove dirt, excess oils, toxins, and bacteria from the surface of the skin, potentially improving the condition of acne-prone or oily skin [5][6]. How Activated Charcoal Works With Acne Acne is a complex skin condition involving excess oil production, clogged pores, bacterial activity (specifically Cutibacterium acnes), and inflammation. Activated charcoal may assist with several of these factors: 1. Oil Control Activated charcoal can adsorb sebum (the skin’s natural oil), helping reduce the greasy environment that supports acne formation [5]. 2. Unclogging Pores By binding to dead skin cells and impurities, charcoal may help unclog pores and prevent blackheads and whiteheads [7]. 3. Indirect Antibacterial Effects Although not directly antibacterial, activated charcoal may reduce bacterial overgrowth by keeping the skin clean and removing the oils and debris that bacteria feed on [8]. However, scientific studies on activated charcoal’s effects on acne specifically are limited, and most claims are based on anecdotal evidence or laboratory models [6][9]. Pros of Using Activated Charcoal for Acne 1. Deep Cleansing AbilityCharcoal’s high adsorptive power helps remove dirt and oil from deep within the pores [5][7]. 2. Reduces OilinessIt may help control excess sebum, making it ideal for oily or combination skin types [10]. 3. Non-Invasive and Easy to UseAvailable in masks, cleansers, and scrubs, it’s accessible and simple to incorporate into a skincare routine. 4. Minimal Systemic RiskWhen used topically, it does not get absorbed into the bloodstream, reducing the risk of systemic side effects [3]. Cons of Using Activated Charcoal for Acne 1. Lack of Clinical EvidenceThere are few well-designed clinical studies proving its effectiveness against acne [6][9]. 2. Potential for Skin IrritationPeel-off masks and some over-the-counter products can be harsh, stripping the skin and damaging its protective barrier [11]. 3. Over-DryingFrequent use may lead to dryness or flaking, especially for people with sensitive or already dry skin [12]. 4. Temporary EffectsAny visible improvement is often short-lived, requiring continuous application for sustained results. Dermatologist’s Advice While activated charcoal can be a useful addition to an acne-fighting routine, it is not a cure. It may provide short-term relief for oily or clogged skin but should be used in moderation and with products that are gentle and balanced. Always follow up with a moisturizer and avoid daily use unless recommended by a skincare professional. If you have cystic or severe acne, consult a dermatologist for a personalized treatment plan that may include topical or oral medications. Products with activated charcoal Our Acne Wash uses activated charcoal and although the formal clinical studies are not overwhelming in proving the efficacy of activated charcoal, the reports and feedback we have received, are quite amazing! References

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Understanding Cradle Cap in Babies

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Causes, Treatment, and When to Worry Cradle cap can be surprising or even concerning to new parents, especially when it first appears as patches of yellow, greasy flakes on a baby’s tiny head. But despite how it looks, cradle cap is incredibly common, harmless, and usually temporary. In this article, we’ll explore what cradle cap is, what causes it, who’s likely to get it, how it can be treated, and when you might need to see a healthcare provider. 1. What is Cradle Cap & What Causes It? Cradle cap, the everyday term for infantile seborrheic dermatitis, is a non-contagious skin condition that affects many newborns and young infants. It typically appears as thick, greasy, yellow or white scales or crusts on the scalp. In some babies, it may extend to the eyebrows, eyelids, behind the ears, neck folds, armpits, or even the diaper area. Mayo Clinic and Cleveland Clinic both describe it as a mild form of seborrheic dermatitis that primarily affects oil-rich areas of the skin. While it may look uncomfortable, cradle cap is not itchy, painful, or dangerous for most babies. What causes cradle cap? Though the exact cause isn’t fully understood, researchers believe a few key factors are involved: Environmental factors (such as dry air) and genetic tendencies (such as a family history of eczema or seborrheic dermatitis) may also play a role, but cradle cap is not caused by an allergy or infection. American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) and KidsHealth agree that poor hygiene is not a factor. 2. Who Gets It? Cradle cap is very common in infants, especially those aged 2 weeks to 3 months. According to the Royal Children’s Hospital of Melbourne and Healthline, up to 70% of babies may experience it at some point during early infancy. It affects both boys and girls and all ethnic backgrounds. It is more likely to occur in babies who have: Cradle cap usually resolves by the time the child turns 6 to 12 months old, although in some cases, mild scaling can persist longer. 3. How is Cradle Cap Treated? While cradle cap often clears up on its own, many parents prefer to treat it to reduce its appearance or prevent buildup. The NHS and Johns Hopkins Medicine emphasize gentle care and patience as the most effective approach. Home Remedies and Gentle Treatments Here are common and safe ways to manage cradle cap at home: 1. Wash regularly with mild baby shampoo Washing the baby’s scalp every few days with a gentle baby shampoo can help loosen scales and prevent new ones from forming. Be sure to rinse thoroughly to avoid product buildup. 2. Use a soft brush or toothbrush After washing, gently brush the baby’s scalp with a soft baby hairbrush or a soft toothbrush to loosen and remove flakes. 3. Apply natural oils You can massage a small amount of coconut oil, olive oil, or baby oil onto the scalp to soften scales before washing. Let it sit for 15 to 30 minutes, then wash it out with shampoo. Always rinse thoroughly, as leftover oil can worsen the problem by clogging pores or promoting yeast growth. Medicated Treatments For more stubborn or widespread cases, a healthcare provider might recommend: These treatments should only be used under medical supervision, as improper use can irritate sensitive baby skin. The Cochrane Review notes that while some treatments show promise, more research is needed to determine which are most effective for infantile seborrheic dermatitis. What NOT to Do 4. Can Cradle Cap Be Dangerous? In most cases, cradle cap is completely harmless and doesn’t cause any discomfort to the baby. It does not itch, hurt, or cause scarring, and it isn’t a sign of poor health or poor hygiene. However, there are situations when medical attention is needed: When to see a doctor: According to the American Academy of Dermatology, in rare cases, what looks like cradle cap may be mistaken for conditions that require different treatment. A pediatrician or dermatologist can help confirm the diagnosis and recommend appropriate care. Final Thoughts Cradle cap is a normal part of infancy for many babies, and while it may not be the prettiest sight, it’s nothing to panic about. With gentle care and a bit of patience, it usually clears up on its own within a few months. If needed, safe home treatments and advice from your healthcare provider can help manage the condition. Knowing that cradle cap is harmless, non-contagious, and treatable can bring peace of mind during those early weeks and months of parenthood. References This article is based on trusted sources such as: Need more baby skincare tips? Explore our blog or follow us on Facebook for real-life skin wisdom and gentle product picks!

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The Truth About SLS/SLES

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This is an in-depth article searching for the truth about sls/sles and its place in our daily lives. Introduction Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) are two of the most commonly used surfactants in personal care and cleaning products. These compounds are responsible for the foaming action in shampoos, toothpastes, body washes, and household cleaners. While they are highly effective cleansing agents, concerns have been raised about their potential health risks and environmental impact. This comprehensive analysis delves into the history, chemical properties, uses, potential health effects, environmental concerns, economic impact, and regulatory status of SLS and SLES. The aim is to provide a well-rounded understanding of these surfactants, allowing consumers to make informed decisions about their use. What Are SLS and SLES? Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) SLS, chemically known as sodium dodecyl sulfate, is an anionic surfactant that lowers the surface tension of liquids, allowing them to spread and penetrate surfaces more effectively. It is synthesized through the esterification of lauryl alcohol (derived from coconut or palm kernel oil) with sulfuric acid, followed by neutralization with sodium carbonate or sodium hydroxide. As a surfactant, SLS effectively removes oil, grease, and dirt, making it a popular choice for both personal care and industrial cleaning products. However, its strong cleansing ability can also strip the skin of natural oils, potentially leading to irritation. Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) SLES is a modified form of SLS, created by introducing ethylene oxide molecules in a process known as ethoxylation. This process results in a milder surfactant with reduced skin irritation potential. Chemically, SLES is known as sodium laureth sulfate, where “laureth” refers to the ethoxylated lauryl sulfate chain. The ethoxylation process also introduces the possibility of contamination with 1,4-dioxane, a byproduct classified as a probable human carcinogen. However, regulatory agencies have set safety limits on its presence in consumer products. History and Development SLS was first introduced in the 1930s as a detergent for industrial use. Its strong foaming and emulsifying properties made it a valuable ingredient in household and personal care products, and it quickly became a staple in formulations for shampoos, soaps, and toothpaste. The truth is that as consumer awareness of skin irritation issues increased, the industry developed SLES as a gentler alternative. By the mid-20th century, SLES became the preferred surfactant in many personal care products due to its lower irritation potential. Despite this, both SLS and SLES remain widely used, with ongoing debates about their safety and environmental impact. Uses and Applications SLS and SLES are found in a wide range of products due to their effective cleansing and foaming abilities. Their primary applications include: Personal Care Products Household and Industrial Cleaners The concentration of SLS and SLES in these products typically ranges from 1% to 30%, depending on the intended use and formulation. Potential Health Effects Skin and Eye Irritation The truth is that SLS is known to cause irritation, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin. Studies have shown that it can strip the skin of natural oils, leading to dryness, redness, and itching. A study published in the Journal of the American College of Toxicology found that even low concentrations of SLS (0.5%) can trigger irritation in some individuals. SLES, due to its ethoxylation process, is considered milder than SLS. However, both compounds can cause mild eye irritation at higher concentrations, as noted by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. Allergic Reactions Although rare, some individuals may develop allergic reactions to SLS. The journal Contact Dermatitis has reported cases of contact dermatitis in patients exposed to SLS in cosmetics and topical medications. These reactions can include redness, itching, and inflammation. Carcinogenicity and Long-Term Safety Concerns Claims that SLS and SLES are carcinogenic have circulated widely, but the truth is that scientific research has not supported these claims. Oral and Systemic Toxicity SLS has been examined for potential toxicity when ingested, particularly in toothpaste. While excessive ingestion may cause gastrointestinal distress, normal use in oral care products is deemed safe by regulatory agencies. Environmental Impact Biodegradability Both SLS and SLES are biodegradable, meaning they break down relatively quickly in the environment. However, concerns remain about their production and disposal. Water Pollution Residues from personal care and cleaning products can enter water systems, potentially harming aquatic life. The accumulation of surfactants in water bodies can affect fish and other organisms by disrupting their natural protective barriers. Sustainability Concerns The truth is that SLS and SLES are derived from coconut or palm kernel oil, raising concerns about deforestation and biodiversity loss associated with palm oil production. Many manufacturers are now opting for sustainably sourced palm oil or alternative plant-based surfactants. Economic Impact Market Size and Demand The global market for SLS and SLES continues to grow. According to a 2021 market report, the industry was valued at approximately $1.1 billion and is projected to reach $1.6 billion by 2028, driven by increasing demand for personal care and cleaning products. Job Creation and Industry Growth The production of SLS and SLES contributes to job creation in manufacturing, research, and sales sectors. Major companies like Unilever, Procter & Gamble, and Johnson & Johnson rely on these surfactants, boosting economic growth. Shift Toward Sulfate-Free Products As consumer awareness of sulfates’ potential irritancy grows, many companies are reformulating products using sulfate-free alternatives such as: While this shift presents challenges for traditional SLS/SLES producers, it also creates new market opportunities for greener alternatives. Regulatory Status International Guidelines Conclusion The truth is that SLS and SLES remain fundamental ingredients in cleaning and personal care products due to their affordability, effectiveness, and foaming properties. While concerns over skin irritation, environmental impact, and contamination with 1,4-dioxane exist, scientific research supports their safety within regulated limits. For individuals with sensitive skin or environmental concerns, sulfate-free alternatives offer a viable option. As the industry moves toward sustainability, the future of surfactants will likely involve continued innovation and the development of gentler, eco-friendly formulations. SLS and our Products The truth is that none of our products

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Fetal Skin Development During Pregnancy

1 Comment / Articles / Marista

The development of a baby’s skin during pregnancy is a fascinating and complex process that unfolds over three trimesters. The skin, the body’s largest organ, serves as a protective barrier, regulates temperature, and contributes to sensory perception. This article explores the intricate stages of fetal skin development, interesting facts, and factors influencing this process. First Trimester: Laying the Groundwork During the first few weeks of pregnancy, the embryo undergoes rapid cell division. Around the fourth week, the ectoderm, the outermost embryonic layer, starts to form and will eventually develop into the epidermis (outer skin layer) (1). By the fifth week, a temporary protective layer called the periderm appears on the fetal skin. This layer plays a crucial role in early skin formation but will later shed as the fetus matures (2). By week 7, the basic layers of the skin begin to take shape, although they are still thin and translucent. The dermis, the deeper layer of the skin, originates from mesodermal cells and will develop into a robust structure as pregnancy progresses (3). At this stage, the skin is extremely delicate and lacks the protective functions it will later acquire. Second Trimester: Differentiation and Maturation The second trimester brings significant changes in the structure and function of the fetal skin. Between weeks 13 and 16, the epidermis starts to develop multiple layers, including the stratum corneum, which provides a protective barrier (4). By week 19 or 20, melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells, begin to function, determining the baby’s eventual skin tone (5). By week 21, the dermis strengthens with the production of collagen and elastin fibers, providing skin elasticity and strength. Sebaceous glands (oil-producing glands) begin forming during this period, preparing the baby’s skin for moisture retention and protection at birth (6). Another crucial development in this trimester is the appearance of lanugo, a fine, soft hair covering the baby’s body. Lanugo helps to anchor vernix caseosa, a white, waxy substance that protects the fetal skin from amniotic fluid exposure (7). Third Trimester: Final Preparations for Birth As the due date approaches, the baby’s skin undergoes its final transformations. The stratum corneum thickens, enhancing the skin’s ability to retain moisture and serve as a robust barrier (8). Vernix caseosa becomes more pronounced, especially on the baby’s face, scalp, and creases (9). This layer also has antimicrobial properties, reducing the risk of infections in utero and during birth (10). By week 32 to 36, most of the lanugo sheds, although some babies may be born with traces of it, especially premature infants (3). The baby’s skin at this stage becomes more opaque as fat deposits accumulate beneath it, preparing the baby for temperature regulation after birth (5). At birth, a newborn’s skin may appear reddish-purple due to undeveloped circulation. Over the first few weeks, the skin tone gradually stabilizes as oxygen levels increase (9). Interesting Facts About Fetal Skin Development 1. The Role of Vernix Caseosa Vernix caseosa not only protects the fetus but also reduces friction during childbirth, making the birthing process smoother (6). 2. Unique Fingerprints By the end of the second trimester, a fetus has developed permanent fingerprints. These patterns are formed by genetic and environmental factors and will never change throughout a person’s life (3). 3. Sensitivity to Touch By week 8, the mouth area becomes sensitive to touch. By week 12, most of the baby’s body responds to tactile stimuli, making touch one of the first senses to develop (4). 4. Skin Color at Birth A newborn’s skin may change color multiple times in the first few weeks of life due to increased melanin production and the maturation of the circulatory system (9). 5. Influence of Maternal Diet Certain nutrients in a mother’s diet, including Vitamin A, Vitamin C, and antioxidants, influence the health and development of fetal skin (10). Factors Influencing Fetal Skin Development 1. Genetics Genetics play a major role in determining skin thickness, pigmentation, and sensitivity (5). 2. Maternal Nutrition A balanced diet rich in vitamins A and C helps fetal skin development. Deficiencies in these vitamins can lead to poor skin structure (10). 3. Hormonal Influence Maternal hormones, particularly estrogen, influence vernix production and collagen formation in fetal skin (7). 4. External Factors Exposure to toxins, pollutants, and infections during pregnancy can affect fetal skin development, sometimes leading to congenital skin conditions (6). Conclusion Fetal skin development is an extraordinary and finely-tuned process, progressing from a delicate, translucent membrane to a functional barrier that protects the baby at birth. Each trimester contributes to different aspects of skin formation, influenced by genetics, maternal nutrition, and external factors. Understanding these stages provides a deeper appreciation of the body’s largest organ and its vital role from the earliest moments of life. References

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